2016: on roller-coastersA trying year for the vintners, nonetheless ending with very nice wines.
After a devastating spring (frost, rain, diseases), the region enjoyed a very nice summer, as well as a sunny September. This resulted in very ripe wines, rather concentrated, with a "je ne sais quoi" underlying their elegance, charm, and soul ...A season everyone in the region will remember !Analyses and TastingsTASTING NOTES - WHITE WINESAll the NewsThe scope of the frost that hit Burgundy late April is unheard of in a very long time. One has to call on the « old guys » to remember something similar: perhaps in 1945 ? This dramatic start was confirmed when it appeared that secondary buds would not compensate at all ... And vineyards which at first appeared unscathed showed smaller and fewer berries than normal.
During a particularly humid month of May, a dawny mildew epidemic wreaked havoc. Certain vineyards seemed to literally "catch fire", with symptoms appearing in just 48 hours and reaching the grapes themselves. Usually, it is the leaves that take the hit. The vintner was under maximum pressure, and wondered even in June if he would be able to keep the diseases in check: powdery mildew also was beginning to pick up, who knew where it would end ?
Then, a miracle: rain stopped almost completely, and July was fair, August warm and sunny ...At the beginning, it was taken as a respite, a pause in that crazy run to disaster, enabling people and equipment to rest. But as a warm and dry summer went on, questions shifted nature: how should we protect the berries from sun burns, are the vines evolving slowly because of the lack of water, should we harvest sooner than we thought ? Slowly, another type of vintage, definitely warmer, was taking shape, and with it, our mood shifted.
The drought did not stop until late August. Even after that date, weather did not change much: it remained calm, temperatures were warm, and precipitations isolated, although sometimes abundant. Rain had been desired and indeed, it allowed the vineyards to restart the ripening process. But berries also increased in size (30 mm of rain in a few days just do not fall unnoticed), and it could have proved dangerous in the end if that messy weather had carried on. Fortunately, it was not the case, and with good weather back, concentration and ripening could resume.
In the end, harvest started on September 26th, in ideal conditions.
Harvesters picked very healthy grapes for the most part. There were one or two threatening episodes but in the end, no significant precipitations. It was a serene process, as much as this term can be used for a harvest ... But still, what a contrast compared to the agony we went through at the beginning of the year ! As if nature wanted to right itself ... Harvesting vineyards stricken by frost was indeed difficult: however few grapes there remained, they were difficult to find in vines which had regrown as bushes. A lot to do for a meagre result.
Wines are often at, or over 13,5° alc. and taste fully ripe.
Malo-lactic fermentations were quiet and un-eventful. They allowed the slightly aggressive finish felt after vinifications to mellow. The vintage has not turned too soft however, and acidities are at a good level, with pHs around 3.5, which shows a good balance.
A very good surprise: the deepness that is now evident in these wines. A character they acquired during summer and their second autumn ... Beyond an evident charm, showing through their caressing and very soft texture, a good structure is detectable. Many cuvées show nice length, with a spicy finish, mineral even, that was not expected of such a ripe vintage.
2016 is not far from the concentration of 2015 !
Who would have thought of such a result when we were so low at the end of June ?
A comparison with 2006 is possible: the vintage is in the shadow of the glorious 2005, nonetheless, it was a ripe vintage, harvested also at the end of September, and that never closed. We wish the same fate to 2016 !
The nose is very open, aromatic and typical of Burgundy. One remarkable element, though, is the almond, with touches of frangipane.
On the palate, the attack is fat and sensuous, with a tighter, more acidic finish and even some lemony notes.
The balance is good, and all the necessary elements are present, but perhaps they are not yet sufficiently integrated. A few months in the bottle can only be beneficial.
From 2019-20 onwards.
Hautes Côtes de Nuits Clos Saint Philibert
A wide-ranging nose, in which you can detect the acidity of pear-drops and yellow fruit, mineral notes of stone and gun-flint and even, in another register, sesame seeds.
The palate starts off fine, straight even, with an underlying concentration which develops during the tasting. A long and complex finish.
Overall, this wine is very coherent, elegant and charming, even. It's prepared for good ageing and is more developed than usual at this stage.
From 2020 onwards.
The first impression on the nose is one of maturity; you can taste the wood a little, with some touches of caramel and crème brûlée. A mineral character too, with the smell of stone!
It seems sound enough on the palate: the attack is frank, with a lot of fatness, and the finish offers us some fine acidity to restore the liveliness.
This is a wine which seems fairly concentrated at the moment, but is pleasant to drink, even if it needs a little time to acquire complexity.
From 2021 onwards.
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
A floral nose, in which you can detect hints of acacia. Also a little crystallised angelica and pear.
On the palate, the dominant impression is one of concentration; this is a fat wine, with a certain seriousness about it. The finish is a little tight and very lemony.
It's "all crazy" for the moment, and it will require a few years to achieve harmony.
From 2021 onwards.
A tiny harvest, and once again a classic example of its appellation. A little reduction is perceptible on the nose, but otherwise, you can also detect notes of spice-bread and apricot.
The palate is generous, fat and ripe, slightly warm, but with a mineral finish.
This wine is quite rich and sweet, very "Meursault" (but fine all the same), and should age very well.
From 2021 onwards.
At the beginning, the nose is characterised by the discreet presence of wood. Touches of yellow fruit and particularly pear can be distinguished.
The palate is powerful and generous. The fruit is more pronounced than on the nose, and there's a fine mineral finish for us to appreciate.
A wine which has everything, with magnificent presence and fine distinction. It deserves to age in order to gain refinement and integrate the woodiness.
From 2023 onwards.